The 1998 Cuvee R. Lalou is a fine, bright shade of gold that captures the light. This wine unfurls itself in a crescendo. The first impression is of elegance, though this is underpinned by an aromatic complexity that hinders close analysis of the wine with all its interlinking elements. The nose opens on fresh citrus and forthright mineral notes, possibly the hallmark of the parcels at les Bionnes and la Croix de Cramant. Soon afterwards, traces of les Crupots if not les Rochelles can be detected. The wine now shows its full complexity, with aromas of nougat, orange, white flowers and acacia honey. Accents of preserved citrus and exotic fruit, vanilla, hazelnut and praline then come to the fore. All the time, the wine seems to dance back and forth between freshness and maturity.
In the mouth, the wine is clean and lively. It remains finely balanced between structure and acidity despite its complex, generous character. The finish is sound, with a slight bitterness discernible that underlines its remarkable length.
Mumm Cuvée R. LaLou '98
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